BLOGS &
FIELD NOTES.
How garments actually get made — patterns, fabrics, factories, fittings and the math nobody teaches in school. Written by people who draft, source, sample and ship.
WHY EVERY PATTERN IS A FUNCTION
Parametric pattern-making, in plain language. Why measurements + ease + grading rules beat redrawing.
A French Terry Buyer's Guide
GSM, loop construction, and how to spec terry that survives the wash.
A Tech Pack You'd Be Proud Of
What goes in, what stays out, and the unwritten rules every factory wishes designers knew.
Reading a Fit Comment
Decoding 'drop the armhole 1cm' and other notes from your fit model.
Lisbon, Porto, or Further?
Choosing where to make a small run in 2026 — MOQs, lead times, and the truth about EU vs Asia.
Grading Rules That Don't Lie
A defensible base size grade, and why grading proportionally is almost always the wrong move.
Pricing a First Drop Without Lying to Yourself
A spreadsheet, four real numbers, and the margin math nobody puts in business books.
Studio Update — v2.4
Cargo block beta, A4 tile improvements, and a quieter exporter. Notes from the last six weeks.
When to Break the Block
Three moments in a draft when starting from a base block costs more than starting from zero.
Honest Denim, Without the Mythology
Selvedge, ringspun, slub — the words that matter, and the ones the mill made up to charge more.
A Linesheet That Actually Sells
Why your linesheet is your second-most-important document, and the hierarchy buyers expect.
The Sample Round Nobody Plans For
Most labels budget two samples. They need four. Here is how to log them and what to ask each round.
Choosing a Factory Without Visiting One
A vetting checklist for when you can't fly out — what to ask, what to look at, what to walk from.
Reading a Cost Sheet Like a Buyer
FOB, landed, wholesale, retail — and where the actual margin lives. Annotated with a real example.
Rib Trim Is the Hardest Yarn You'll Buy
Why rib trim moves more in a wash test than any other component, and what to spec to keep it honest.
Understanding Neck Tape in Garments
The strip of fabric sewn into the back neckline seam has a bigger impact on comfort, durability, and perceived quality than its size suggests.
Care Labels: What They Must Say and How to Spec Them
Fibre content, care symbols, country of origin — what the law requires, what ISO 3758 defines, and how to write it into your tech pack.
How to Sew a Polo Shirt
A step-by-step assembly guide for the Maelo polo — placket, collar and stand, set-in sleeves, sleeve binding, side slits and hem. Illustrated, metric-first.
How to Sew a Drop-Shoulder T-Shirt
Assembling the Maelo drop-shoulder tee — shoulders, rib neckband, flat-set sleeves, side seams and hems. Illustrated, metric-first.
How to Sew a Regular T-Shirt
Assembling the Maelo set-in-sleeve tee — shoulders, rib neckband, easing the sleeve cap, side seams and hems. Illustrated, metric-first.
How to Sew a Crewneck Sweatshirt
Assembling the Maelo crewneck — shoulders, ribbed neckband, set sleeves, and rib cuffs and waistband. Illustrated, metric-first.
How to Sew a Tank Top
Assembling the Maelo tank — shoulders, neck and armhole self-binding, side seams, optional side slits and hem. Illustrated, metric-first.