Development budgets for emerging brands typically allow for two sample rounds. Real development typically takes four. The gap between expectation and reality is not inefficiency — it is physics. Each round reveals information that the previous round could not.
What each round is for
Round one (Proto) is a reality check. Does the factory understand the tech pack? Is the construction method viable? Is the fabric roughly right? Do not attempt to fit the proto on a body — the measurements will be wrong. Your job at round one is to confirm that the factory is working from the right document and that the construction is in the right territory.
Round two (Fit Sample 1) is the first real fit session. The construction should be correct, the fabric should be close, and you are now evaluating: how does it sit on the body? What needs to move? Generate a clear set of fit comments and send them with a revised tech pack. Do not mix fit comments with construction comments — they are different problems with different solutions.
Round three (Fit Sample 2) resolves the fit comments from round two. If the factory has executed correctly, this sample should be wearable. You are looking for residual fit issues and confirming the final fabric against the approved swatch.
Round four (Sealing Sample) is the top-of-production sample, made in bulk fabric and trim from the actual production run. This is what you compare the bulk delivery against. Never skip this round — it is the only objective record of what you approved.
How to log them
Maintain a simple log: round number, date received, tech pack revision used, list of issues found, list of corrections sent, date corrections sent. When the bulk delivery arrives, this log is your evidence if there is a dispute about what was approved. Keep physical samples from each round until bulk is received and accepted.